Race Ramps trailer ramps make loading and unloading low profile vehicles and equipment a stress free task. The end of the ramp is notched to seat your trailer ramp easily and securely. The added distance the Race Ramps provide allow for an incredible decrease in the approach angle for what is being loaded. This is perfect for any car show enthusiast that has a lowered or exotic car that they haul and worries about damaging the front or “bottoming out” when taking the vehicle on and off the trailer.
In the past many people used either a cut 2×4 or 2×6 to prevent scrapping during loading and unloading. The problem with wood is that it can age and weaken over time. The wood you get at a store also doesn’t have a weight rating which forces you to guess what would be appropriate for your need. With race ramps the composite material is both lightweight and strong so it will greatly outlast the life of a wooden board. Each Race Ramp will also have a weight rating giving you the confidence that it will never fail while loading and unloading. Unlike the wood alternative Race Ramps have a no-skid bottom so you never have to worry about sliding or shifting while loading and unloading.
| Hub Centric Wheels are centered by the center bore of the wheel and the hub flange.
|| Lug Centric wheels are centered by the torque of the lug bolts; rather than the hub flange.
There are two distinct types of wheels found on today’s Cars, Light Trucks, RV’s and Trailers. There are Hub Centric wheels and there are Lug Centric wheels.
The most common automotive wheels are Hub Centric in design. The center hole of these wheels is the actual center bore of the wheel. These wheels can be properly mounted and accurately balanced using the standard cone system supplied with most off car computer balancers.
Many of today’s RV & Trailer wheels are Lug Centric in design. The center hole of a Lug Centric wheel is not the true center. These wheels cannot be accurately balanced using the normal automotive cone wheel balancer mounting system in use by most repair shops.
Many Lug Centric wheels may appear to be mounted correctly with the center cone system, but they cannot be accurately balanced. The wheel balancer will continue to either “chase weights” or the wheel will show signs of imbalance when re-mounted on the RV or Trailer.
To ensure an accurate balance, Lug Centric wheels must be mounted on the balancer through their lug bolt pattern. Lug Centric wheels, when mounted on the RV or Trailer, are centered by the torque of the lug bolts and not the center bore of the wheel.
The only way to properly balance Lug Centric is through their lug bolt pattern. This style wheel must be mounted to the computer balancer in the same manner as it is mounted on the vehicle…through the lug bolt pattern.
Lug centric mounting on the wheel balancer mimics the way the wheel is mounted to the vehicle. If you are balancing Lug Centric wheels, you must use an Atlas Universal Adaptor ™ or similar devise. The standard cone system will not work properly.
Protecting your snowmobile trailer from wear and tear during heavy usages is just as important as protecting you Snowmobile. There are a few companies out there that make snowmobile trailer accessories designed to protect and secure. Two companies leading the charge in innovation and quality are Caliber Products and SuperClamp.
Caliber Products manufactures products focused on maintaining the trailer deck and ramp while making it easier to load and unload snowmobiles. Their products usually help aid in gripping or gliding depending on where the item is designed to be used. Glide products are designed to help the Skis’s slide on and off the deck without damaging the wood while the Grips are there to help the track grab the floor while protecting what is underneath. Grips and Glides both come in varying thickness, sizes and patterns so chances are the right combination can be found to fit any application.
SuperClamp’s products are designed to aid in the securing of snowmobiles on the trailer for transportation to and from the trails. Their products include tie downs that will secure the rear or front of any snowmobile. Front and Rear tie down systems are designed to be quick and easy to use without sacrificing strength. It is also possible to add a padlock to these systems to add further security if snowmobiles are stored on trailer or sometimes left unattended.
At the end of the day maintaining or protecting the trailer used to transport the snowmobiles is just as import as the snowmobiles them selves. The last thing anyone wants is to have to fix a broken trailer instead of hitting the trails.
It’s that time of year again to start thinking about winter activities and preparing for the season. One of the more popular winter activities is snowmobiling. Often not thought about until it’s too late, similar to boating, the trailer is a key supporting piece to the fun. If something brakes or malfunction’s on the trailer it has the potential for some pretty serious consequences. Luckily with our OEM parts, as well as aftermarket parts, you should be able to avoid preventable issues.
Along with the standard parts we have always carried; tires, wheels, axles, and so on, we now carry factory direct parts specifically for snowmobile trailers from Triton Trailers and Karavan Trailers. These parts include tilt bed hardware, coverall hardware, ski hold downs, and other hardware specifically found on snowmobile trailers. Some of these parts are small but important and may be worth having an extra in your tow box, such as a tilt bed pin.
We also carry everything that you would need to outfit your trailer to protect the longevity of the deck and ramp. We carry products from Caliber and SuperClamp that are designed to add traction and protection to the trailer. These products included deck slides, track grips, ramp/shields, and more that will greatly improve the ease of loading and unload snowmobiles.
Unique Functional Products, UFP as they are commonly known, offers two different series of disc brakes. They offer a DB-35 and a DB-42 and since the parts are not interchangeable it is essential to be able to identify what you have.
The DB-35 visually appears more similar to an automotive caliper. It will have two mounting ears below the body to attach the caliper directly to the axle brake flange. The rotor is also identifiable but it can be a little more difficult. On the rotor/hub there will be a minimum thickness of 17mm (MIN THK 17.0 MM) stamped on the inside of the back.
The DB-42 is visually unique and consists of a thick caliper body that houses the piston, and a metal shroud that will house the pads. The DB-42 will have only one mounting bolt hole located in the center of the bleeder valve and brake line port. On the rotor/hub there will be a minimum thickness of 22.40mm (MIN THK 22.40 MM) stamped on the backside.
Trailer Parts Superstore® carries a wide selection of Factory O.E.M. trailer parts in addition to our large assortment of aftermarket equipment and accessories. Many parts on a trailer are made by their respective manufacturers such as “Wesbar” lights or “Stoltz” rollers. Although we carry those items, we also carry parts made specifically for the following trailer companies:
EZ-LOADER, LOADRITE, VENTURE, KARAVAN, MAGIC TILT , SHORELAND’R ,
ROAD KING and CONTINENTAL
Most boat trailer manufactures used parts unique to them which can make it hard to find some of these parts. These factory direct parts are OEM replacement parts and can be matched by OEM part numbers or by dimension and descriptions. We try to offer one of the largest selections of Factory O.E.M trailer parts out there. We currently carry factory direct parts from 8 of the leading boat trailer manufactures and are still adding more. Don’t forget to to check our complete list of Factory parts here, FACTORY PARTS PAGE , as we are constantly adding items.
The two main types of ELECTRIC BRAKE ASSEMBLIES for axles 7K and below are Forward Self Adjusting (FSA) and Manual adjusting. The difference between the two is that the forward self-adjusting brakes will adjust themselves as needed so that they are always at the optimum position. Manual brakes must be adjusted manually via the star adjuster on the back side of the brake assembly as needed. Due to the reduction of required maintenance, the FSA brakes are becoming a lot more popular.
It is important to be able to identify which type is already on your trailer so that maintenance or replacing is done correctly. This cannot simply be done by looking for a star adjuster because both types have that. The FSA brakes will have a wire that will run from about 9 o’clock to 1 o’clock. On the 1 o’clock side it will have a banjo looking fitting (shown to the left). The manual adjusting brake will not have this wire running across the inside of the assembly.
Another way to identify between the two is the bottom spring. On an FSA brake assembly (shown above) the spring will be straight and wrapped around the adjuster. On a Manual adjusted brake assembly (shown to the right) it will be a curved spring below the adjuster.
Due to the way that these brakes operate we absolutely recommend being consistent through the trailer. It is NOT SAFE to run both types of brakes on the same axle. It is NOT RECOMMENDED to run both types of brakes on the same trailer (different axles) but if the brakes on each axle match, it is operable. Problems will occur if one side of the trailer is adjusting automatically and brakes on the other side are not.
A final thought about FSA brakes assemblies. It is important to keep in mind that FSA brakes are automatically adjusted to perform at their best. This means they may not last as long as manually adjusted breaks. This is because manually adjusted brakes, if not adjusted regularly, are not being used to there potential and the shoes wear slower.
For someone who might not be familiar with the numbers and letters on a TRAILER TIRE, replacing one could prove frustrating. We will break down the metric size designation found on most trailer tires so that identifying your needs should be simple. For an example we will be identifying the meaning of the numbers and letters on a
ST stands for “Special Trailer” and signifies its use for trailers only.
205 is the “Section Width” of the tire in millimeters when mounted on the specified rim and inflated to the maximum pressure. The Section Width is the measurement of the overall width of the tire not including any protruding letters or protective ribs around the outer sidewall. To convert this to inches simply divide the number by 25.4
205 divided by 25.4 = 8.07″
75 is the aspect ratio of section height to section width. Also known as the series number or profile of the tire, this number means that the height of the tire is 75% of the width. So since we know that the Section Width is 8.07″ then that means 75% of 8.07 is the section height. (8.07 x .75 = 6.05″)
R designates the tire as a Radial Ply as appose to a Bias Ply (D Designation). For a more technical look at the difference check this out.
14 is the rim size. This is the diameter of the rim measured in inches from bead to bead. The actual physical diameter will measure slightly larger then the listed size because the beads are inside the lip of the rim.
Another number set that you will find on a tire is the Birthday. This will be represented by a 4 digit number inside of an oval. The first two digits are the Week # and the second two digits are the Year. 0214 Would mean they were manufactured in the 2nd week of 2014.
We hope this was helpful in identifying what the numbers and letters mean on your trailer tire. Remember to always run your trailer tires at maximum PSI filled when cold. To check out our full list of tires and more Tech info visit us at www.TrailerTires.com
Tis’ the Season for Snow Plow Parts and Salt Spreaders. We have been steadily expanding our offering on both Plows and Spreaders. We stock a wide selection of Aftermarket Snow Plow Parts and Accessories for most major brands including Meyer, Western, Diamond, Fisher, Sno-Way, Blizzard and Boss. On the spreader front we offer, Walk-Behind and Tailgate Spreaders for residential and light commercial use and Municipal Hopper and Dump spreaders for municipalities and contractors.
We carry a wide range of different Snow Plow Products including, Angling Cylinders, Solenoids, Curb Guards, Light Kits, Wiring Harnesses, Control Assemblies, and much more. We also carry ‘Under the Seat’ emergency kits for most OEM’s. The kits include some of the crucial/most common hardware to complete a roadside repair on common issues. All in stock orders with snow plow parts on them, if received by 2:00 pm, will ship the same day.
The Spreaders that we carry range in size from a 1.5 Cubic Ft. all the way up to a 13.8 Cubic Yard municipal hopper. We carry spreaders capable of both salt and sand operations. The Spreaders, because of their size, ship directly from the manufacture (refer to individual spreader for ship times).
There are a few common spindle sizes found on Trailer Axles rated at 3,500lbs or less. These are the most common axles found on Boat Trailers, Small to Medium Sized Utility Trailers, Snowmobile Trailers, and more. There are 4 main areas of importance on the spindle to consider when purchasing a Trailer Hub or Bearings. They are, Seal Surface, Inner Bearing Surface, Outer Bearing Surface, and Thread Surface.
One of the most common trailer spindles out there is a 3,500lb “Tapered Spindle” (when bearings have different Inside Diameter’s). This spindle is usually found with a 4-hole brake flange welded to the axle. The flange is there for Trailer Brakes to be mounted but does not have to be used. Here is a diagram showing the 4 important areas on a 3,500lb spindle:
Another commonly found spindle is when both bearing Inside Diameter’s are the same and this is called a “Straight Spindle”. These spindles are commonly found on axles rated at less than 3,500lbs. Most trailer manufactures used and still use what is referred to as a “Standard Spindle” while others used, less commonly, what is referred to as a “Short Spindle”. If the Hub is available to measure, than Hub Length* can be used to determine the difference. If the hub is not available you can measure the spindle from the seal surface shoulder to the beginning of the thread as shown:
*Hub Length is the distance through the center of the hub from casting edge to casting edge. A “Standard Spindle” hub will measure between 4” and 4-1/16” while a “Short Spindle” hub will measure 3-1/2”.